What’s on the menu in 2035? (Copy)
Follow the seasons. Sheila is picking edible flowers and foraging with Iolanda Bustos in Fontclara, Spain
Sheila Struyck worked for years as an entrepreneur, investor and in senior marketing positions. At the age of 55, she changed course; she obtained her qualifications at the French Le Cordon Bleu gastronomy school and is now working as a chef in various restaurants. She writes about her experiences in the hospitality industry for Food Inspiration. As a semi-outsider, she presents her reflections in a light-hearted way. This time, she puts some tricky questions on the menu.
Everybody who goes thorough professional training must figure out 'what to do when you get out of school'. At my age(55), I'm in a hurry to find my niche. That's why I interview 'Chefs who do things differently' for Food Inspiration. I learn from their stories and experience. For the same reason I jumped on the assignment from a French multinational to carry out a study on 'the future of food, agriculture and gastronomy in 2035'.
The task: feed almost 9 billion people in 2035
With six passionate, international young food, health and technology scientists from the WUR (Wageningen University & Research), we analysed more than two hundred articles, reports and opinions. Together, we mapped out the dynamics of the food sector in 2035. Our planet will have to feed 9 billion people in 2035. That is 1.5 billion more than today. Newsweek calculates that we will not be able to produce enough calories by 2027 if we continue to feed 60% of the plant nutrients we grow to animals first and then eat those animals. The temperature will rise by 1.5 degrees and 30% of food production will never reach a plate or glass. At the end of it all, we were gloomy. The problem is so inevitable and huge. 'What can I do about it?' (I guess by now you - the reader - don't feel like reading on either. Do it anyway).
Chefs and producers of the College Culinaire de France
Less waste
The more dishes on the menu, the greater the chance of 'waste'. In Spain, it is quite normal for high end restaurants to ask at the time of reservation which of the three available menu's the guest will choose. And the Chef has the freedom to make daily adjustments in order to incorporate seasonal produce. A table d'hôte in France follows the same principle. Chefs decide which dishes are on the menu.
Artisanal producers
Chef Eric Brifard told me about the College Culinaire de France. Founded in 2011 by fiteen world renowned French Chefs including Bocuse, Brifard, Rebluchon, Savoy, Pic and Troisgros. More than three thousand members, from oyster growers, to salt producers, gingerbread bakers, vineyards, chicken breeders, cheese and cream farms to beer brewers and distillers. Oh yes, and restaurant owners. 'There are no big Chefs and small producers. They are all men and women who create dishes and ingredients with great value and taste', said Chef Brifard. Together they fight for biodiversity and the taste of the products. It is important that the artisans can make a good living from their work, which is why the 220 affiliated restaurants pay them 20% more than the big suppliers. This intensive cooperation in the region creates change.
In a charming advert from the College Culinaire de France you can see famous chefs being encouraged by a young girl to create the most beautiful dishes. 'These little products aren't 'chichi', they're the ones who care about my future.'
The end of the customer is King
Instead of opting for expensive ingredients being flown in, the affiliated chefs say that we should take nature's whims and imperfections as the starting point of menu planning and not as something inflexible. Stop seeing the customer as king, but involve him or her in the challenges and the charm of eating with the seasons and striving to not throw anything away. Limit the choice and let nature determine and change the menu. Less in the bin makes a difference in the margin. In that case, it is possible to pay a little more to a local farmer or gardener who will encourage the planting or breeding of different varieties. Besides, products in season are always in abundance, so it is not only the taste, but also the price that is better. Isn't it time for a Dutch movement of Chefs and artisan producers who together put better quality and biodiversity on the menu?
Published as column on Food Inspiration